Granny Square Cardigan

Finally the granny square jacket for my daughter is made, and she has left for her course studying fashion in Brighton. I wrote previously about when I started making the squares for the granny chique look. It was a close thing getting it finished, with me running in ends up to the night before she left. Will it get worn? I'm not sure, although she is planning to join the surf club, and I can imagine her sitting on the beach in it after a swim. I would really quite like one for myself, maybe in more muted colours, but will take a break from crochet for a while.

It really did take a lot of work making it. I had the idea to try and make the squares look a bit like a stained glass window, but after joining a few by just sewing together with black wool, I realised that they really needed a black crochet edge. Also that gave it a much baggier look. The sleeves, neck and button bands, and bottom rib are knitted. My crochet skills really weren't up to improvising those parts. 

So feeling a bit sad at the moment, but hoping she will have lots of exciting times.

"I Could Make You One of Those ..."

So many times when I am out shopping with my daughter we see something nice, and I hear myself saying "Yes, but I could make you one of those ....". 

OK, so most of the time I don't actually get round to the making, but I found myself saying this when she wanted one of the kimono style robe/jackets that have been all over the shops this year.
  

The thing that often puts me off sewing is that I know that by the time I have bought pattern, thread, material etc. it would really be cheaper just to buy the garment. But for this simple garment I thought I could make my own pattern. So out my old copy of Winifred Aldrich Metric Pattern Cutting, the bible for pattern cutting, and I had a go at blocking out the pattern properly. I used the basic bodice block, which is then adapted into a basic kimono block. It is quite a while since I have done this, but so long as you take careful measurement and follow the instructions step by step it is not too difficult.

 
The material was from Fabricland. It was very fine, which was quite tricky to sew and cut as it was quite slippery. I couldn't save time by just pinning, but had to tack all the seams. I used French seams, which is great as all the raw edges are safely sealed away. It turned out so well, and I now have a pattern, so I may have a go at another version of this kimono. Or even make one for myself.

Here are a few more photos of my daughter wearing the kimono in Bruges, where we had a short break last week. A beautiful city - which has museums of chocolate, beer and chips. Something for everyone.

... and with slightly more camera shy big brother.

1940s Fashion - New Look Jacket

This is my second post on 1940s fashion. Previously, after my visit to the Imperial War Museum, I wrote a little about the utility fashion of the war years. But in 1947 Christian Dior came out with "The New Look". Although jackets still had the slightly military look, and a nipped in waist, The New Look was more romantic. They often had a peplum, to give a really feminine shape. There was a move away from the austerity and fabric rationing of the war years.

I am really using this as an excuse to show you a jacket I made as part of my City and Guild Fashion course, which I did as an evening course quite a few years ago. It skulks at the back of my wardrobe, as I never seem to have an occasion that is quite right to wear it.

Forgive the terrible photos. I forgot to brush my hair, and that my bottom half was in jeans. My eye is also immediately drawn to all the faults in the jacket, but I guess as I made this jacket two babies and a lot of years ago, it is not too bad. I had a second attempt at photos, but they turned out even worse. At least the garden looks nice in the background. What a contradiction - although I love fashion and clothes, I am also naturally quite scruffy, and would probably wear jeans all week if it were not that they aren't allowed in my job.  Also this is almost the most I have ever shown of myself on my blog. I am a shy blogger, which is also a bit of a contradiction. 

As well as designing and making the pattern from your own block, you had to have a theme and incorporate techniques. (I had a thoroughly good time, learned a huge amount, and met some lovely people. I also ended up with a collection of rather unusual clothes.) 

Sketches where I was working out my design ideas for the jacket

My theme for the jacket was 1940s "The New Look", but with a twist. The twist was that I used a zip as the front fastening of my jacket. Although zips were used in clothing in the 1940s, they tended to be used concealed in the side of the garment, and it would have been more usual to have buttons at the front. 

Drawings of the jacket

The jacket is made up of panels, which was also a feature of the 1940s war years, when large pieces of fabric might not have been available. The black pieces are made of a suedette fabric, and I was really pleased with how the handmade piping between the sections and around the edge of the collar turned out. Though probably the best bit, which you can't really see, is the lining. I hadn't lined a jacket before and probably won't ever again!

Here are some links to other garments that I made on this course: African Skirt, and Shepherdess Smocked Blouse. There is one more that I will show you in the future probably when I am a bit short of knitting news. Although I have been knitting this week, most are Christmas gifts, and I don't want to spoil the surprise.