Saturday 29 November 2014

1940s Fashion - New Look Jacket

This is my second post on 1940s fashion. Previously, after my visit to the Imperial War Museum, I wrote a little about the utility fashion of the war years. But in 1947 Christian Dior came out with "The New Look". Although jackets still had the slightly military look, and a nipped in waist, The New Look was more romantic. They often had a peplum, to give a really feminine shape. There was a move away from the austerity and fabric rationing of the war years.


I am really using this as an excuse to show you a jacket I made as part of my City and Guild Fashion course, which I did as an evening course quite a few years ago. It skulks at the back of my wardrobe, as I never seem to have an occasion that is quite right to wear it.


Forgive the terrible photos. I forgot to brush my hair, and that my bottom half was in jeans. My eye is also immediately drawn to all the faults in the jacket, but I guess as I made this jacket two babies and a lot of years ago, it is not too bad. I had a second attempt at photos, but they turned out even worse. At least the garden looks nice in the background. What a contradiction - although I love fashion and clothes, I am also naturally quite scruffy, and would probably wear jeans all week if it were not that they aren't allowed in my job.  Also this is almost the most I have ever shown of myself on my blog. I am a shy blogger, which is also a bit of a contradiction. 


As well as designing and making the pattern from your own block, you had to have a theme and incorporate techniques. (I had a thoroughly good time, learned a huge amount, and met some lovely people. I also ended up with a collection of rather unusual clothes.) 

Sketches where I was working out my design ideas for the jacket

My theme for the jacket was 1940s "The New Look", but with a twist. The twist was that I used a zip as the front fastening of my jacket. Although zips were used in clothing in the 1940s, they tended to be used concealed in the side of the garment, and it would have been more usual to have buttons at the front. 

Drawings of the jacket


The jacket is made up of panels, which was also a feature of the 1940s war years, when large pieces of fabric might not have been available. The black pieces are made of a suedette fabric, and I was really pleased with how the handmade piping between the sections and around the edge of the collar turned out. Though probably the best bit, which you can't really see, is the lining. I hadn't lined a jacket before and probably won't ever again!



Here are some links to other garments that I made on this course: African Skirt, and Shepherdess Smocked Blouse. There is one more that I will show you in the future probably when I am a bit short of knitting news. Although I have been knitting this week, most are Christmas gifts, and I don't want to spoil the surprise.

22 comments:

  1. I LOVE this jacket, Ginny! I've always liked herringbone, especially the tiny one. This is such a flattering style too, with all of the lines. Thanks for sharing this. Have a great weekend!

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  2. I love the garden background for the jacket as it gives the jacket a great sense of life and practicality. I would love to learn how to makes jackets and such someday. Perhaps if there is a course somewhere close by I will take it.

    Sean at His and Her Hobbies

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  3. Wonderful shots...and I love the 1940s look. It reminds me of the days when I was young and my mother wore these styles.

    We always see our own little mistakes...to others, the finished look is perfect! Thanks for sharing, and here's MY SATURDAY SNAPSHOT POST


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  4. Incredible work! It looks different but stylish too.

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  5. Wow, this jacket is gorgeous. You are so clever. I really wish my dressmaking skills were better. You're lovely jacket makes me want to get out the sewing machine and have a go ( something simple though, I could only dream of making a jacket).

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  6. I have no talent for this. Impressed! :)

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  7. I love this jacket, especially the piping. That's so difficult to do perfectly. I've done a lot of sewing over the years, but I've used commercial patterns. So impressive that you designed the jacket, made the pattern, and constructed the garment. Good job!
    Sandy @ TEXAS TWANG.

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  8. While I see some of the design concerns you have with this piece, I still think it's wonderful. I love the piping around the panels and the use of a sueded fabric in the upper shoulder panels ... very cool. I learned to sew my own clothes from my mother and made most of my school clothes and peasant blouses and such during my teen years, so I really appreciate good workmanship when I go shopping for clothing. I have always wanted to be able to develop my own patterns, but am intimidated - don't want to waste fabric with thelearning curve ... catch 22!

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  9. I love that jacket...I think its cool that you made it..and you should definitely wear it more....I don't do the sewing thing...well I have a machine, but I seem to break it every time I touch it....

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  10. What a great project. Much as I like the finished product I'm really impressed by your drawings of the jacket- they're fantastic.

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  11. I love the fabric contrast and the piping detail. And why are you so busy apologising for your hair and jeans! Yes, the garden does look lovely but we are all looking at the beautiful jacket.

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  12. A fabulous jacket, and I am in awe that you designed it yourself - I really couldn't do anything like that at all!

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  13. I can see why you would have learnt such a lot whilst making this jacket, it has so much detail using different techniques. Your skirt is amazing too. Something to be proud of :)

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  14. wow, you are so clever designing and making up your jacket. I hope you're not going to put it back into the back of the wardrobe!

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  15. Looks wonderful, and I love the smocking as well. Very talented.

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  16. You are sooooo clever! What a super jacket. It must have taken you ages to sew and what a wonderful skill to learn! xx

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  17. Wow the shapes of all the panels are amazing! It's tricky blogging at this time of year. There is so much secret crafting going on! x

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  18. I love it! The color is great too ~ and the back is so flattering. Nice job!

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  19. Wow your jacket is amazing. I love the fact you've completely designed and made it yourself. You so talented.
    Ali xx

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  20. What talent. I wanted to be a fashion designer, but I couldn't sketch to save my life!

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  21. That jacket is GORGEOUS! I have to say, I love looking at photos of my grandparents from the 40's. Their clothing was so stylish. Very smart looking. This jacket totally captures that spirit.

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  22. My mother taught me to sew as a young girl-I have fond memories of having 2 sewing machines set up at our dining room table and staying up late at night with my sisters sewing. One of our projects was making lined wool blazers. Now, I wish I still had that blazer.

    I love your jacket and do not think you "need an occasion" to wear it. I would wear it with your jeans or over a dress with a pretty silk scarf!

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